Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD Elephant Hose and Resistor Mod

Posted: April 24, 2013 in Miscellaneous

Another project I wanted to get working on was updating the Jeep for better reliability – getting 18 mpg towing a 14′ steel trailer with a Miata on it and all my gear – pretty damn impressive as most Grand Cherokees with Hemis (comparable power) get 18 mpg on the highway just driving along.

Elephant Hose Mod: Pretty easy to do and prevents oily residue from gumming up the intercooler and more importantly the EGR valve causing a CEL.  The original Elephant Hose came with an orange seal that also leaked oil onto the top of the engine and into the swirl motor electrical connector which was right below (causing it to fail as well).

Swirl Motor Mod: The swirl motor is a contentious addition to the engine.  It’s supposed to swirl the air going into the combustion chamber at low RPMs to help create better combustion.  However it is prone to fail from leaking oil no it or over time.  It is hard to replace and the connections are extremely brittle.  When it fails you get a CEL and the CRD goes into limp mode.  Dealers want at least $1,300 to fix it.  However some smart people realized we don’t need it as it does not affect driveability or power and the fix is < $.05 with a radio shack resistor.

  1. Peter Nearhos says:

    Looks like a good idea. My hoses were replaced but too late and the swirl motor has failed a year later. One question, I tow a fairly heavy boat, 2.5 tons, you sure the lack of a swirl motor will not affect power? Can you leave the hoses in place and do the bypass on the swirl motor? What is the resistor you use?

  2. Peter – you do not need to do the elephant hose mod to put in the resistor. The resistor is a 4.7K ohm 1/2 watt resistor I got from radio shack (came in a pack of 5). I’ve had it on for several months and have had no issues – acts just like it did before the swirl motor failed (there are people who’ve had it on for years with no issues as well). I’ve since towed 3 times my racecar and trailer and all my gear which is ~ 2 tons total and have not noticed any difference in drive-ability (in fact get many compliments when I get on the throttle regarding the immediate torque when it hits and doesn’t have to downshift).

    Try this website for more info:

  3. Pete says:

    I just did the resistor mod after the swirl motor failed. I also put in the oil catach can, just too late I assume as it failed shortly after. I used a 4.7k ohm 1 watt resistor, just to make sure I didn’t have to put another one in. Early days yet, but I cannot feel any lack in power at all.

    • Kris says:

      Just curious what might
      have turned my check engine
      light on after I did the Swirl motor mod
      & Elephant hose mod. Coincidence ??
      Can I leave the swirl motor hooked up &
      still do the elephant mod?

      • Get a code scanner to figure out the code you are getting. It could be unrelated to the mods you did.

        If it’s the swirl motor then recheck the steps you took mod and make sure you did it properly – i.e. using the proper resistor affixed to the proper pins.

        The elephant hose mod is not related to the swirl motor.

  4. nick says:

    i’m in the UK and have been researching these mods for my 2004 2.7 crd overland…
    after reading horror stories about swirl flaps breaking off and jamming open inlet valves! (then kiss goodbye to the engine).
    i removed the manifold (115,000 miles) and it was coked up with so much carbon from the EGR and oil from the breather, the swirl flaps were having difficulty opening! the EGR valve was coked up but still working! the swirl flap shaft seals (under the manifold) were leaking oil and blowing out soot! the other downside to all this is the CAT was working overtime….

    it was a real pain to remove/refit the manifold (aim off for a day if you’re competent with the spanners).

    preparation first:
    i bought a used manifold on eBay,
    DE-CARBON using every chemical available (Mr muscle oven cleaner was the best).
    gutted it of swirl flaps,
    welded all the holes underneath where the shafts were.
    blanked off both sides of the EGR chambers in the manifold. refitted the EGR (looks standard). removed all the swirl flap motor and bits associated with it!
    opened up the CAT and removed internals! re-welded up (looks standard).
    removed the silencer to, so no straight through….
    bypassed the swirl flap motor.
    had the engine re-mapped (not a cheap eBay plug in box, OBD re-map).
    not done the breather yet as with all this, the smoke cloud is non existent 😉
    sailed through the last MOT on emissions, the tester said it was the cleanest he’d tested.. when i told him what i’d done to it he was a bit surprised.

    the jeep now has 200 BHP and 420 NM torque 🙂

    its my work truck and is full of heavy tools, and yet it still surprises people at the lights.

    the positive points are:
    loads of power/torque!
    after letting the foot off the throttle, it now coasts much better, changes up sooner, & smoother.
    cleaner emissions.
    fuel consumption… around town driving miss daisy= 30 MPG!!
    on a run (no more than 60 mph using cruise on motorways) 43 MPG.
    not going to lock open an inlet valve!
    sounds superb 😉

    time consuming and owed me £300 total.
    fuel consumption… with a heavy right foot around town 22 MPG.
    neighbors not impressed with me leaving early in the morning, but they have commented on how lovely it sounds. if i miss daisy it out, they don’t mind 😉

    MPG figures were not using the dash gauge (need to divide by 1.2009499255398), but filling to the brim. re-setting the trip and repeating when next filling up. so as accurate as can be.

    i didn’t take loads of pictures, but i have a few and can advise if others want to have a go.
    have a go 😉

  5. Zach says:

    My 2008 went into IMP mode a few days back, could use it to get around town but the extreme lack of power and loss of ability to accelerate was more than worrisome. I searched online forums for several hours to see what some leading causes were – several just plain and simply came down to it either being a swirl motor or my turbo – both would have cost $1300 +. I came across this link and wih the step by step (with pictures) I bought and installed the 1 watt 4.7k resistor and ….the jeep is back to its old self!!!! The warning light is gone and it is back to full power – HUGE THANK YOU. For the thorough and detailed write up (not only on this but on all of it)

    Zach – Vancouver BC Can.

    • Les says:

      Zach, I bought 2007 with 140k on it. The first thing I did was to put resistor in the Swirl Motor harnes and went PCV in the air (under Jeep). Drove for 6K and did not notice any change in performance and/or mileage. I am glad I did it.
      Do U know someone in BC who will do delete DPF and EGR?
      Thanks – Les from Burnaby.

    • Jorge estrella says:

      Hi Zach …my 2008 crd Cherokee went on a limp mode today …question , although the swirl valve is at fault , the resistor mod will get rid of limp mode ? Secondly where would I find this plug and play resistor .? Thanks for your help !

  6. Dick van Wyk says:

    Hi Guys, thanks for the info on the mod with the resistor, BUT my engine still need a Viagra Boost, still goes i9nto limp mode, PLEASE ANY OTHER SUGESTIONS TO SORT IT OUT

  7. denis kilner says:

    Excellent information from all you guys. Some jobs I am planning to do to my 2007 Jeep as described in your forum. Thanks for all your great descriptions on how to prevent problems to this engine. Regards to you all. Denis.

  8. Chip Beckham says:

    I’m a new owner of a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 3.0L diesel. I’ve gotten the check engine light with throttle position (lightning bolt) light also. The engine stalled but always re-started with no problems. I think I’ve got the swirl motor failure problem. Couple questions:

    1. If I add the 4.7k ohm resistor in the middle two sockets of the connector, do I need to crimp pins to the resistor leads to get a good fit?

    4. You show the connector taped up, when finished. What do you do with the mating connector?


    • First off get an obd scan done to confirm it’s this issue. Second do this fix anyway. I did not crimp the pins – just inserted the resistor in to confirm it fit snugly (you can test this as you will get a CEL for this if it does not work). I then taped it up to make it water tight. I also taped up the other plug as well to keep out water and debris. I bought a pack of 4 so kept the others in the glove box for just in case. Also – there’s a guy on JF who sells an actual plug with the resistor preinstalled for ~ $30 that fits perfectly if you want OEM look. Good luck.

      • Javier Vega says:

        HI! I from Chile, and my jeep grand cherokee 2005 wk CRD 3.0 is OK !! Apply the resistor in 30 minutes! Thanks for all! Question, is necessary and compatible for my jeep, the elephant hose?
        The alarm is necessary erase with the scanner only? the reaction accelerate is ok but the alarm check engine is in the panel instruments. only erase scanner? SORRY FOR THE ENGLISH!
        Saludos desde Chile!! UN ABRAZO!

      • The elephant hose modification is not necessary but reduces oil vapor ingestion into the turbo / intercooler housing.

        As for the check engine alarm you had before doing the resistor fix – erase it with a scanner or unhook the battery for 15 minutes.

  9. mohi takiari says:

    ecellent reading thanks

  10. mohi takiari says:

    excellent info thanks

  11. Steve says:

    Hi, all I have 2.7 crd and need to do the swirl flap motor delete, any help as I believe this is about the 3.0 crd, I see that nick did all his, I too am from the uk nick, any help would be great.
    Best regards

  12. Pete says:

    I have just done the resistor trick !Couldn’t believe how simple it was . I was sure I was gonna have to pay £1 000 000.00 to get it mended !!

  13. Kevin says:

    I did the resistor and now I get a engine light on with OBD2 code P0101. MAF sensor issue. Replace it and still the error code.

  14. Colin says:

    Hi there I have the same swirl motor problem, it just seemed to come out of nowhere. I have a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 132K has been an awesome machine till now, I have done the resistor trick have got the performance back, but the engine warn light has come back up, I may have cheated with the resistor I have used two 2.2k together would that be the problem does the
    resistor have to be 4.7k.
    But thankyou for all this feed back I was looking at a $4000.00 repair bill

  15. mick says:

    awsume read , are these wat ur talking about in resistors ? thankyou

    Product Name Carbon Resistor
    Lead Type Axial
    Power Rating 1W
    Resistance 4.7 Ohm
    Tolerance ±5%
    Total Size (Approx) 60 x 3 mm / 2.4″ x 0.12″ (L*Max.D)
    Main Color Gray, Silver Tone
    Weight 173g
    Package Content 500 Pcs(±2%) x Carbon Film Resistors

    • The only thing that matters is to give a reading of 1 watt and 4.7 ohm to the ECU to tell it that the swirl motor is operating normally even though it is defeated and fully open.

  16. Shaun says:

    My Jeep 2009 3.0crd went into limp mode with the engine management light on and the electronic theottle control light flashing. Jeep wanted £6200.00 to install a new Turbo????. Went online found info. I have just changed the elephant hose (£120.00) to the turbo inlet due to the leaking seal. Also added the 4.7k ohm 2W resistor (from Maplin UK £0.44). took me approx 30minutes to carry out the work. Jepp now running at full power. So thankfull for these forums..happy British Jeep driver!

  17. Nelson says:

    The resistor did the trick. Thank you so much. Saved me $4500. in repairs.

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