Exocet Part 12 – Brakes, Clutch & Steering

Finally finished plumbing the brakes & clutch last night and bled the system. Again my good friend Dave was here to help. I would not have taken this on myself and might have brought it to a shop to get it done by a professional. One great thing about the kit is they supply 3/16″ cunifer alloy lines. These are much easier to flare, bend and use than a stainless steel (very hard) line. You can also do slight bends that are needed by hand without kinking the line. In addition Exomotive also offers an optional AN3 brake line kit that is even easier to install. Hydraulic systems in cars use your typical DOT3 but I recommend DOT4 (I’m using my last can of illegal ATE SuperBlu for this job). Flush the system every 6 months or so (more often if you track the car) as brake fluid is hygroscopic and if / when it boils it creates air in the system that will not get absorbed back in and cause the squishy pedal.

Remember the Engine Hoist – broken down and put in basement.

Tools needed:

• Brake Flaring Tool
• Brake Line Bender (these lines are easy to bend and can also be done by hand for < 45 degree bends)
• Brake Line Cutting tool (DO NOT USE SNIPS!)

I ordered some brake flare nuts but the auto parts store gave me the wrong ones (asked for a Miata and the line is 3/16th – well they gave me 3/16″ nuts for 3/16″ lines which isn’t metric). I didn’t notice this until later so before running back to get a couple (they didn’t have much in stock) I tried reusing the old ones from the old lines. When doing this make sure they are in good shape and cut the lines with a cutting tool so they are easy to remove. Then clean up the nuts with a wire brush and a thread file, then blow them out with compressed air. They did just great and saved me about $25 (after I returned the wrong ones). Learned a lesson that auto parts guys don’t really know much about auto parts.

Adding Braces to Pedals: Before doing the lines we had to put in the master cylinder as well. The kit comes with 3 braces that you can use to make the pedal assembly much stronger. One mounts to the throttle pedal to the bottom and the two mount at the top to both the main pedals and clutch.

Painting the clutch pedal brackets.

From above with the master cylinder and pedals – note the brace on the clutch may need a new hole drilled.

From below – see up top the braces you can install there to make pedals firmer.

From above and side.

From outside – see lower brace.

Front Brake Lines: Easiest job to do at first was front brake lines as the engine was removed making it really easy to get access. Lines are run on the side so that they are out of the way of rocks or rods coming through an engine block cutting a line (I hope the latter will never happen). Also notice no proportioning valve as we are running a brake bias line to the rear so don’t need it anymore. Make sure you secure them down well as you don’t want the hardlines to move or rub against anything. Next up was to fabricate up some tabs to mount the hardlines to the flex lines – before cutting the final hard line – make sure flexible lines do not get stretched when you turn the wheel both directions. You may need to add or subtract length and all depends on your flex lines. To make the bracket cut 1″ wide by 1/8″ thick plain steel to preferred length. Bend to fit and cut down and get rid of sharp 90 corners (great for slicing skin). Mount it to the lower subframe at the lip.

Dave starting the lines – engine out makes this a breeze.

From up above master cylinder.

Run down to drivers front.

Stepper drill bit to make tabs for hardline to flex line.

Tabs installed.

Full lock out.

Full lock in.

Rear Brake Lines: Since I’m running a rear bias valve I ran it on the drivers side tunnel so I can mount the adjustment valve closer to the driver. If you are not doing this then run it to the passenger side (you’ll note as soon as it runs from my valve the line goes to the passenger side. This is because if the driveshaft fails the brace that connects the rear end to the transmission will protect the brake line and continue to give you rear brakes. I’m running a stock Miata SS line kit so it includes the distribution block. The Exocet chassis will require you to turn it 180 degrees as the bulkhead will block the input line from the master cylinder. Make sure you note which way first. Then running the lines back there is easy to as the hard to flex line tabs are reused on the drivers side.

From Master Cylinder

Running back towards tunnel (on drivers side)

To brake bias valve (make sure it’s fully open for bleeding). Then runs over tranny to protected side of tunnel.

Run to distribution block and then back over to drivers rear.

To distribution block. Note backwards installation as rear bulkwark impedes normal mounting.

Another view of pass rear.

Drivers rear.

Clutch Lines: We installed the engine before we did this as we needed to see how the coil fitted to the firewall. I also bought the long SS line that eliminates the curly Q line. The biggest challenge was running the line from the clutch master cylinder to the clutch slave. The out of the clutch has ~ 1″ of clearance from a chassis tube and requires a 90+ degree bend in order to plumb it back into the engine bay. I did not think of it at the time but a good option might be a 90 degree fitting to run there.

90 degree bend needed to turn and avoid chassis brace.

Run from slave cylinder – follow brake lines.

Reuse stock tab and drill into brace. Make sure lines do not touch.

Bleeding the System: A vacuum bleeder makes this really easy but is not necessary. If you are doing this without one you may need to add pressure to the master cylinder to push the fluid into the air filled lines as the pedal might not be able to generate the pressure yet. This is the fun part as you may have some leaks (this is more normal than you think with newly formed lines as you don’t want to over-tighten them).  So when a leak is discovered only do a 1/4 to 1/3rd of a turn at a time then rechecking under pressure. You do not want to use all your strength as you may split the line causing all sorts of trouble (and having to run an entire new line).

Steering Installation: Now that the brakes and clutch are done and bled it was time to add the steering column back in. I’m not running a key so didn’t need the ignition. I’m putting in an ignition panel with push start button instead. It also removes the steering lock as well. Locktite blue the steering shaft bolt for extra security. Use the included steering column bracket and bolt it in.

I also installed the Driven 13.5″ Deep Dish Steering Wheel and bolt on quick release for the Miata. I had to get a 3 hole to 6 hole adapter which added another 1″ (note that Driven also sells a 3 bolt adapter as well). I’m tall so another 1″ will help me reduce the reach to the wheel. Racing you want a perfect 90 degree bend in your elbows to reduce fatigue in steering. Then when turning you “pull down” to steer rather that “push over” like most drivers do.

Clean and paint steering shaft.

Driven Steering Wheel – beautiful!

360 degree quick release that bolts onto Miata shaft. Recommend getting a spot weld to hold it on permanently to shaft.

Installed

From drivers view!

Steering shaft in engine bay.

Exomotive Emblem: I had my friend Scott Rhea at http://www.plasmatracks.com cut out an emblem that I wanted to proudly display on my transmission tunnel. It is 6″ wide as I wanted something easy to see. But some smaller 3″ ones might do the trick for a hood emblem or something. You can contact Exomotive if this is something you are interested in.

Can be mounted in front of radiator.

I painted it engine block red and like it here on the tunnel.

Exocet Part 11 – Tunnel Bulkhead & Engine Installation

As the chassis is now connected to the front and rear subframes (I had the engine out so they were two separate parts) it was a perfect time to start plumbing new brake lines. Please note this will be in a separate post when finished (still have some rears to plumb). But the engine bay is done and the engine installed.

A buddy of mine is in town for a couple weeks and volunteered to help. His name is Dave Riley and he has probably forgotten more about building a car than I know. So the experience from him helping a home / shade-tree / low experience mechanic like myself is invaluable. He’s also our NASA CR Chief of Tech.

Transmission Tunnel Bulkhead Installation: I noticed how much access you have to the engine bay even with the tunnel bulkhead installed and went ahead and did that rather than wait til after the engine was installed. The bulkhead comes with a small hole almost where the shifter will poke through. Not exactly lined up but I was able to use a body saw to cut out a whole ever increasing in diameter to fit the shifter housing through it. I took some photos with measuring tape to help guide you. The transmission is from a ’91 Miata and I had a ’99 in the garage and noticed the difference in design of the shifter housing area so makes sense to not make a bulkhead specific for each car – also allows them to keep costs down and make this kit so affordable.

Cut & Plumped In

Passenger side

Close up fitted. When bulkhead affixed it does not flex so didn’t need to trim it wider.

Measurement 1 – hole diameter

Measurement 2 – Your shift boot will cover up and seal this area.

From end of bulkhead.

From side of bulkhead.

 

Exocet Pallet Wood Engine Hoist & Engine Installation: I was dreading running to the parts store to rent an engine hoist and haul it back in my WK Grand Cherokee. It is not a big truck but fits my needs with best in class mpg (diesel engine), awesome torque, a 7,400 lb tow rating, and being about the size of a midsized US sedan it takes up little footprint (versus our humongous obsession with gargantuan pickup trucks). So I thought about the time and effort of getting a hoist and then noticed I had a hand crank geared winch that can lift ~ 1,000 lbs and had all that leftover pallet wood that came with the chassis. So I decided to use my opportunity cost time to make a hoist out of it and then can break it down into pieces and reuse it later.

Engine Hoist – notice gusseting to spread stress / reinforce).

From Above (notice dual boards on top with long bolt and fender washer).

Both side legs have gussetting on both sides (2′ board with 45 angles). Also notice the lower brace to keep the legs from spreading).

1k lb Harbor Freight Hand winch – geared perfectly for lifting the Miata engine.

Hooked up to the engine. Did not use a leveler as you can hand manipulate it.

Dave laughing hysterically at what I did and that it worked.

After some finageling and working in the tranny bolts and engine mounts – done!

Beer time!

Rear of car.

Angle

Front of engine.

Hmm – need to fix something – oh – hand fits through the side!

 

The access you get to the engine is just phenomenal especially coming from a sedan type vehicle that you can’t see and or reach. This is going to be one of the easiest cars to work on.

Exocet Part 10 – Chassis Installation

Mating the Exocet to the Miataskate: I was under the weather for about a week with some nasty cold / flu thing that I blame on getting it from work (4 very stressful weeks of constant project deadlines). Please note before you do this to make sure the stick lever is removed on your Miataskate or install the chassis without the tranny tunnel bulkhead (what I did). This is absolutely the best part of the entire process, even better than removal of the old Miata tub. I mean look at it! There is nothing so satisfying and easy than laying the Exocet on a level Miataskate. The race chassis is so light (wonder how little the base or sport weighs) it only needed myself and another guy lift it and walk it over. I had a couple extra helpers but one is a 100 lb girl and the other was holding a baby in his arms. So easy – it’s done… Well, walk away and have that preferred beverage! After 1 or 2 beverages I realized the car can’t be driven yet. Damn – head back out into the garage and then get awestruck again as the footprint is so small now compared to that humongous land barge called a Miata. I’m now worried this might get sucked up into the exhaust of some of the American Iron Mustangs that I’ll be on track with.

Miataskate and Exocet are now one!

Bolting it Down: This step seems easy enough but when you start with the chassis I did you might run into issues. Yep the upper front subframe bolts did not line up (looks like they bowed out from that hit with the tree). It is not a huge margin but it’s off by 1/2″ but the good thing is all other bolts lined up perfectly. This should be a caution to those who buy wrecked chassis to possibly expect this step.

Hmmm – the brain gets thinking and after two “beverages” I say let’s try a 1″ ratchet strap – doh! So a trip to Home Depot (tool / hardware stores) to get a 1 ton come along (will keep it in the trailer as maybe needed at some point as I’ve seen a Miata rear end get pulled back out with one, a standard car scissor jack and a an F350 – that’s a story for another time). Also got a nice link of chain for the other side. Hook it up around the uprights and pull it together (make sure to put a towel over the rope section for any whip control if the line breaks. It took 6 clicks and BAM! – it lined up perfectly. Leave the come along on and do the install sequence of all bolts and torque them down so it does not try to flex back.

1/2″ off.

1 ton come along to the rescue. Put towel over cable when ratcheting – I had mine off for pictures.

Chain around 1 side.

Cable around the other.

More

More

Viola! Lines up on both sides.

Test Fitting the Transmission Tunnel Bulkhead: This is the next step as you need room to drill out the holes for screws or rivets (pedals will get in the way). You would normally do this in the previous step but I had the engine removed so will need to install the engine and want this super awesome easy access to the upper tranny bolts. How easy of access will this be! Also note you will need to trim the shifter mounting hole as mine almost lines up if the car is put into 3rd gear (bu need to cut out about a 2″ diameter hole). Will trim this out and install a new rubber shift boot then put on a nomex cover for added fire protection.

Jeez – want ease of access?

Another pic with bulkhead off.

Need to trim out entire section for the shifter. Will also have to add brake bias valve.

Reinstall the Engine: I’ve got to put in the engine now that I have a chassis that is squared away. Did not want to try to install it earlier as was worried about the subframe having issues mating it to the transmission. The chassis gives me the stability I need. Rent from local auto parts store and plug away.

Start Reinstallating all that Crap you Took Off: This is the part that you need to take your time and not half-ass anything.

• Clutch Pedal & Cylinder: I went with a whole new clutch kit – SS line, new slave cylinder and new clutch master cylinder. I’m keeping the extras as known good spares and boxing them up for just in case.

New clutch master cylinder.

From above.

From the side.