Jeep CRD Maintenance

Posted: December 7, 2011 in Miscellaneous

Finally got some time last week to get the Jeep into the repair shop (actually had to as the alternator started to malfunction – would charge then stop charging off and on).  I tried to find out as much maintenance info as I could (nothing came with the car and the dealer was ignorant of what was done – likely they didn’t do much to it either before putting back up for sale).  I did call a bunch of dealers in the area and was able to get a limited list of maintenance done / warranty work.

Purchased at Olathe CDJ late 2006.  Most oil changes were done at Quaker State but no record of frequency or oil type.

  • 2k miles fixed a recalled issue (none stated). Briggs CDJ
  • 4.8k fixed right front door handle. Briggs
  • 6k replaced right front door handle cover. Briggs
  • 16k CEL on and engine stalled.  Replaced crank position sensor (TSB). Briggs
  • 18k Fluid leak on transmission – replaced connector. Briggs
  • 33k CEL on. Cleared code and did oil change. Speedway CDJ
  • 35k Fuel Filter / Fuel module problem.  Replaced Fuel pump, electric shift module (tranny ECU).  Sunroof drain clogged and cleared.  Speedway
  • 51k Replaced fuel filter. Speedway.
  • 66k CEL and transmission concern.  Replaced fuel filter and shifter assembly. Briggs

So into RennsportKC for some much needed work:

  • Alternator issue: Well the reason why the alternator was malfunctioning is the oil fill cap was no longer sealing and allowing oil to leak out when the engine is running and of course down on it.
  • Blown Struts/Shocks: After driving it for one month with a pretty bad suspension changing it over to a Bilstein HDs made a huge difference – no more bouncy, boat ride.  The front struts were so bad that if you push them in they will give you no resistance and will not spring back up.  If that wasn’t hard enough one of the lower suspension bolts in the front was rusted entirely through so that it would not come out.  After about 6 hours and using multiple tools in the shop Karl/Wes got it out.  Seems the bolt snapped in two but could not be removed as it warped and would not leave the bushing.

Seized Bolt

  • Leaking Fuel Filter: Seems the last place that did this left a small fuel leak (not a big one but enough that it would dribble down the back of the engine making it look like there was a oil leak).
  • Intake Charge Tube: The Jeep had the original style intake charge tube (or elephant nose – it kinda does look like one) and it was leaking air out of it.
  • Differential Fluid Change: Since the Jeep had not maintenance history and with 70k mile on it now and since I’ll be towing it needed this changed.  In goes Mobile 1 75-140 fluid and hopefully both diffs will have years of good life left in them.
  • Remove / Clean EGR: These are known to cake up the EGR after time and having it periodically cleaned will help prevent the EGR from malfunctioning causing more issues.

Next Up:

  • Auto Trans Flush / Filter and Fluid
  • Provent Catch Can Mod (prevent oil from crankcase vent valve getting into intake system)
  • Add Solid State Brake Controller
  • Add Boost Gauge
  • Do INMotion ECU tune (stock 215 hp / 376 tq – Eco Tune goes up to 235 hp / 431 tq and Stage 2 goes up to 247hp / 443 tq) – that’s good for a high 14 second 1/4 mile in a diesel suv that gets mid 20’s mpg.

Our most recent trip got us 25.6 mpg (mainly highway).

25mpg+ in a 4wd off road capable SUV that can tow 7,300lbs!

Karl did a writeup on the install as well with some good pictures.


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